Z Lager - Fort Collins Brewery, Fort Collins
For me, every Smoke Beer will always be measured against Spezial and Schlenkerla. It's not entirely fair but those are the Rauchbiers I grew up on and I have a special place in palate for them. Z Lager from the Fort Collins Brewery really does hold its own compared to the originators. The Z Lager is closer in style to the Spezial Rauchbier because it has a lighter body and isn't as overwhelmingly smoked. I can't say it's entirely the same style because the Z has many Amber-like characteristics. This beer has a bitterness that doesn't distract from the smoke until it gets close to room temperature. There is also a spicy, but not overtly hoppy, finish that just screams Amber to me. The entire package is quite good. The Amber qualities give this beer a levity that the traditional German Rauchbier generally don't have. But then, when you're looking to drink a Smoke Beer it's usually not meant to be refreshing and crisp.
Whether you're a veteran of Rauchbiers or you haven't ever heard of the Smoke Beer genre, I'd suggest trying the Z Lager. It's smokey without being too strong or too heavy. If you end up liking it you can always step up to the heavier Rauchbiers.

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